Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
